How to Plant Seed Potatoes

Project Overview
  • Working Time: 30 mins
  • Total Time: 8 wks, 4 days - 12 wks, 6 days
  • Skill Level: Beginner
  • Estimated Cost: $1 per pound

Potatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow, but rather than planting them from seeds produced by the flowers of the plant, they are generally grown by planting portions of the root structure, known as seed potatoes. Seed potatoes are tubers that you can use to grow new potatoes that will be genetically identical to the parent potato. Potatoes grow more expediently by this kind of vegetative propagation, and for most home gardeners the process is easier than growing from seeds. Typically it can take about 60 to 90 days for potatoes to grow after planting. Read more about how to plant seed potatoes in the early spring so you can harvest them by midsummer.

Overhead view of seed potatoes in an egg carton

The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe

When to Plant Seed Potatoes

Potatoes do best in full sun. They can be planted in the early spring two to four weeks prior to the expected last frost date in your area. Generally, potatoes will not grow until the soil temperature has reached at least 45 degrees Fahrenheit. You can plant a second crop as late as June 15th depending on location and harvest the potatoes as late as possible. Potato plants will tolerate a light frost, but protect plants from freezes with row covers, or harvest them before a freeze arrives.

Warning

Take care not to plant seed potatoes in soil that is too cold or soggy. This may lead to rot.

Working With Potatoes

Soil and Climate Condition

Potatoes are aggressively rooting plants and will produce the best crop when planted in light, loose, well-drained soil. Potatoes prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5—acidic to neutral. However, potatoes are prolific growers and usually adapt to poor soil and climate conditions. Make sure to rotate where you plant potatoes in the garden, as soil-borne diseases can linger in the ground and affect future crops.

Selecting the Seed Potatoes

When selecting seed potatoes, do not use the potatoes you buy at the grocery store. Grocery produce is often treated with a growth inhibitor, which keeps potatoes fresher longer but also prevents sprouting or stunts growth.

Organically grown potatoes may be free of growth inhibitors, but they are prone to any diseases carried over from their growth period (such as ring rot or fusarium wilt). You need disease-free, certified seed potatoes. Before planting, examine the seed potatoes and discard any that have soft spots, cracks, bruises, or signs of rotting.

Pre-Sprouting Potatoes

Before you plant, you may also decide to "chit" (pre-sprout) the potatoes. If you decide to encourage stem growth on your potatoes, this step will add two to four weeks to the planting process. However, many gardeners find that chitting potatoes produces a quicker, slightly larger potato.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Knife

Materials

  • Seed potatoes
  • Powdered sulfur (optional)
  • Bag (optional)
  • Egg carton, box, tray, or screen (optional)

Instructions

Overhead view of materials needed for planting seed potatoes

The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe

  1. Chit the Potatoes (Optional)

    Although potatoes will sprout in the dark, you will get long, pale shoots that easily break. Instead, place them in a cool spot with bright light for 2 to 4 weeks. This way, the sprouts will grow stocky, sturdy, and dark green. This process is also called greening. You can place your seed potatoes upright in an egg carton or box, on a tray, or screen with the majority of buds ("eyes") facing up. Do not pile them atop one another. You can start this process one month before your outdoor planting date.

    Placing the seed potatoes in a bright spot with direct sunlight

    The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe

  2. Cut the Potatoes (Optional)

    You do not need to plant a whole, intact potato. Seed potatoes can be cut into pieces before planting. Each piece should have at least one "eye" each—a bud that will sprout into a new plant. Use a sharp, clean knife to cut the seed potatoes into 2-inch squares. If you are going to cut them, do it about two days before you plan to plant. This allows the pieces to form a callus or seal, which prevents rotting while the pieces sprout and take root. If your seed potato is smaller than a ping pong ball, though, plant it whole.

    Cutting the seed potatoes in half

    The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe

  3. Plant the Sprouted Potatoes

    Plant the potatoes as soon as the sprouts are 1/2 inch to 1 inch long. Handle the seed potatoes carefully, so the sprouts do not break off or become damaged. Plant potatoes with the sprouts facing up and cover lightly with soil. If you've cut the seed potatoes, make sure the cut side is facing down.

    Planting the seed potatoes

    The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe

  4. Plant in Rows

    Potatoes grow best planted in rows spaced 3 feet apart. Plant the seed potatoes in a trench that is 6 to 8 inches deep. Place cut side down, with eyes facing up. Space the seed potatoes 12 to 15 inches apart. Fill the trench with 4 inches of soil. As the plants grow, add more soil, mounding it up around the plants.

    Planting the seed potatoes in spaced out rows

    The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe

  5. Water Well

    Keep potatoes well-watered throughout summer, especially when flowering. During flowering, the plants begin to create the tubers—the edible potatoes. Potatoes need 1 to 2 inches of water per week to produce well.

    Watering the planted seed potatoes well

    The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe

  6. Harvest the Mature Potatoes

    When the foliage turns yellow, discontinue watering to begin the curing process for harvesting. You can harvest baby, or "new" potatoes two to three weeks after flowering ceases. Dig around the plants carefully to remove new potatoes for fresh eating, and leave the smaller potatoes to continue growing.

    For potatoes that you plan to store, harvest the crop two to three weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully loosen the potatoes with a garden fork and remove them from the bed. If the weather is dry, leave the potatoes in the garden, unwashed, for two to three days to cure, or move them to a protected area, such as a garage or shed, to cure.

    A person digging up potatoes.

    The Spruce / Debbie Wolfe

Seed Potato Tips

  • Chitting potatoes isn't necessary, but it can lead to an earlier harvest. If you plan to cut them eventually before planting, chit them first.
  • More eyes per piece of seed potato equals more potatoes. Small potatoes with one or two eyes mean fewer potatoes but they will be larger.
  • If you need to delay planting, move seed potatoes to a cooler spot to slow their growth. Avoid waiting too long or they may dehydrate and shrivel.
  • On average, one pound of seed potatoes should yield about 10 pounds of edible potatoes. Depending on the variety, one pound of seed potatoes should fill a 5- to 8-foot row.
  • Planting seed potatoes in pots and bags is a great alternative if you have issues with voles in the garden. Fill a grow bag halfway with potting mix, plant the seed potatoes, and add more soil as they grow. To harvest, dump the bag onto a sheet or tarp.

How to Protect Your Seeding Potatoes

Since seeding potatoes are vulnerable to pests and disease, it's important to do everything you can to protect them. Here are some ways to ward off things like slugs and potato blight.

  • Irrigate early in the day to allow the soil to dry out before slugs become active in the evenings.
  • Choose a blight-resistant variety.
  • Plant tubers that are certified and of high quality and rotate them regularly.
  • Cut away infected material as soon as you spot it if your crop does fall victim to blight.
  • Dust your seed potatoes with powdered sulfur right after cutting them and before planting them.
  • Take care when watering to avoid soaking the foliage.
  • Add layers or mulch to the soil.
FAQ
  • What should you do if your potato leaves have brown spots?

    Brown spots on your potato leaves could indicate a nutrient deficiency. Remove the affected foliage and fertilize. If the browning persists check for pests or diseases.

  • What should you do if your potatoes are going soft?

    Any potatoes that have gone soft should be discarded.

  • What can you plant immediately after harvesting potatoes?

    Once harvested, you can rotate to medium-hardy root vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, or turnips. Low-yielding vegetables such as lettuce and spinach also make good followup crops.

  • Is it possible to save potatoes for seed next year?

    You can save potatoes for seed for next year by storing them in a cool, dry place (around 50 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal). Wrap them in newspaper and put them in a paper-lined box with an open lid to prevent them from rotting.

  • How many seed potatoes can I plant together?

    If planting seed potatoes in the ground, dig individual holes and place a cut piece of seed potato in each. If planting in a trench you can plant several in a row about 10 inches apart.

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.
  1. General seed-rots can pose problems in potatoes. Michigan State University.

  2. Crop Rotation, UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines: Potato. University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources.

  3. Organic Production and IPM Guide for Potatoes. Cornell University Cooperative Extension with NY State Department of Agriculture & Markets.