How to Build a Stone Retaining Wall
Short, dry-stack stone walls are DIY-friendly
Building a stone retaining wall is suitable for DIYers as long as the wall is no higher than 3 feet. With the dry-stack method, mortar and a concrete footing are not required.
Learn the easy, no-mortar way to build a stone retaining wall by stacking the stones on top of each other—the dry-stack method.
What Is a Dry-Stack Wall?
A dry-stack retaining wall is built from natural stones laid on top of each other, with the entire structure on top of a gravel base. Dry-stack walls drain well. Proper drainage reduces damage and the need for wall repairs.
Codes and Permits
A permit may not be required if the stone retaining wall remains below a certain height—48, 36, or 30 inches, depending on your area.
Your city may require a permit and inspections for retaining walls of any height, even if you do the work yourself. Be sure to check before you build.
Warning
Before breaking ground, call 8-1-1, the national "Call Before You Dig" hotline, to have all underground utility lines marked on your property.
Need more help? Talk to a landscaping expert
What You'll Need
Equipment / Tools
- Wood stakes
- Maul or hammer
- Brick chisel
- Mason's line
- Line level
- Shovel
- Wheelbarrow
- Utility knife
- Rake
- Short 2x4 board
- Hand tamp
- 4-foot carpenter's level
- Caulking gun
Materials
- Field stone or cut stone
- Compactible gravel
- Landscape fabric
- Coarse sand
- Drainage gravel
- Masonry adhesive (optional)
Instructions
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Organize the Stones
Organize the wall stones roughly by size and shape, making different piles as needed. Do this off to the side, not on the wall location.
Use large, flat stones for the base. Reserve smooth, undamaged stones for the capstones at the top of the wall.
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Pare Down the Stones
Knock off peaks and other odd formations with a brick chisel and maul, as needed, to make them fit during construction.
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Run a Level Line
Hammer down wood stakes and run a mason's line between the stakes to mark the location of the front face of the base of the wall. Place a line level on the string, then pull the string taut from one end, and level the line before tying it off to the stake.
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Dig the Area
Dig out the area, starting from the string and moving back toward the slope. Dig 12 inches into the ground to create a flat, level trench for the gravel base. Dig into the slope to create a 6- to 12-inch-wide space between the backside of the wall and the slope.
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Add Landscape Fabric
Cover the excavated area with strips of landscape fabric. Lay the fabric perpendicular to the front of the wall. Extend the fabric a few feet onto the upper-level ground. Overlap adjacent strips of fabric by 6 inches. Cut the strips to length with a utility knife.
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Build the Wall Base
Fill the trench with 5 inches of compactible gravel. Rake the gravel so it is flat and level. Tamp the gravel with a hand tamp or a rented power tamper. Add a 1-inch layer of coarse sand over the gravel. Smooth the sand with a short 2x4 board so it is flat and level.
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Lay the First Course
Set large, flat stones along the front edge of the trench to build the first course. Add or remove sand beneath each stone, as needed, so the tops of the stones are flush with one another. Set the 4-foot carpenter's level across multiple stones to level the course.
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Lay the Second Course
Place the next course of stones on top of the first, again staggering the joints. Firmly set each stone to reduce wobble.
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Backfill the Wall
Fill the space between the wall and the slope with drainage gravel. Rake the gravel flat and level, and tamp it thoroughly with the hand tamp. Backfill only up to the highest course on the wall.
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Install Tie-Back Stones
With higher courses of stones, install tie-back or deadman stones. Tie-back stones reach back into the slope to tie the wall into the earth. Place a tie-back stone every 4 feet horizontal feet.
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Fold Back the Fabric
Fold the landscape fabric over the drainage gravel as you near the top of the wall. You can do this before the last one or two standard courses or before the capstones (the top-most course), depending on how much soil you'd like at the top of the wall (for growing grass).
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Place the Capstones on the Wall
Lay the top course of stones—called capstones—to complete the top of the wall. If desired, you can glue the capstones to the course below to keep them secure. Use masonry adhesive.
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Backfill With Soil
Trim the landscape fabric so it is just below the top of the wall. Cover the landscape fabric and backfill behind the top of the wall with soil, as desired. To grow grass in this area, the soil layer should be at least 6 inches thick.
Stone Retaining Wall Tips
- To create a more natural or aged look, add plants in various places on the wall.
- Rougher stone will automatically have gaps large enough for packing in soil and planting.
- If you use cut stone, plan for plantable gaps when building the wall. They don't need to be large and should not compromise the wall's integrity.
- Flat or cut stones are much easier to work with than fieldstone and will make a sturdier wall.
- Cascading plants, such as creeping thyme, perennial yellow alyssum, and annual white alyssumcomplement stone retaining walls.
- Herbs also work well growing on or near rock walls.
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How can you build a stone retaining wall on a budget?
You can build a cheap stone retaining wall by sourcing your own stones. You can build a stone wall with natural fieldstone on your property, provided the stones are flat enough for stacking. If you must buy stone, choose a flat stone such as flagstone or a cut stone like ashlar.
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How long does a stone retaining wall typically last?
Stone retaining walls can last for decades—even centuries. However, because the stones tend to shift, they need to be adjusted periodically.